Install & Maintenance Guides

Concrete Drilling

Tips

Chromebooks

Chromebooks are good for installs as they are cheap and all you need is a browser and a terminal anyway.

To get a standard terminal you have to put the Chromebook in developer mode: 

This will erase your login info and any local data!

The Chromebook should restart and you can sign is as guest or enter your gmail etc to set up the laptop.

The next time you start your Chromebook-

Crimping

Here are some helpful videos on crimping. Like nearly everyone we use the T-568B standard

Video 1

Video 2

DIY Install Overview

For a DIY ("do it yourself") install we recommend joining our Slack group where you can chat with us.

There is a channel in Slack- #diy-install-support where you can ask questions. We can guide you on what hardware to buy, and what is likely the best connection to a nearby antenna.

For DIY, you must still fill in our join form. This will give you an Install Number (or request number) which you will need when you are ready for an install to request a Network Number (or NN) in order to be able to configure your devices for your install. It will also get you in our system so we can give you advice and look for line-of-sight connections, as well as put you on the map. (We are working at automating the process so you can use the Install Request number and the system will automatically allocate a Network Number for you. For now you need to request it via #diy-install-support or via the email your received with your Request Install Number)

For a quick check of line-of-sight you can use our line-of-sight tool. Put in your address and it will show you which hubs you might be able to connect to.

Here is a list of equipment we typically use. Remember to use outdoor ethernet cable, and securely mount your antennas on j-pipes or secured masts. Masts should be strong metal as plastic PVC pipes will bend.

Our general install advice is here in the docs

When you are ready, here's how to configure your devices.

We ask you, if you can, to support NYC Mesh with a monthly subscription. Donating helps maintain, operate, and expand NYC Mesh so, just like you, others can benefit from the network.

Equipment

To connect to NYC Mesh, you will need to install wireless networking equipment on a rooftop or outside a window. This page lists a range of equipment and tools that are commonly used for typical installations. Before assembling any equipment, first carry out a site survey and make an install plan to narrow down the equipment you really need. For detailed information about specific routers, visit the hardware docs.

You can download a handy checklist of the equipment listed on this page here.

For DIY installers: To get help figuring out which essential equipment you need for your installation, first familiarize yourself with the equipment below and then reach out to the NYC Mesh community on slack on the #diy-install-support channel.

For volunteer installers: Prior to any install, make sure you have access to the equipment listed below. If you are missing any equipment needed for an install, reach out to install leaders on slack on the #install-team channel to ask to borrow them. Shared tools are available and we can purchase, order and ship networking equipment (routers, cable, connectors, etc.) to your address.

Networking Equipment

Product Name Product Photo What it's used for Where you can get it Cost              
Laptop (charged) alt text Configuring outdoor and indoor routers, reading docs and install plan Bring your own
Outdoor router(s) (pre-configured) alt text Connecting to a node Order online or collect from mesh room stock (refer to specific product page in hardware docs)
Power Over Ethernet (POE) adapter and power cable alt text Providing power to the outdoor router and passing data to and from indoor router Comes packaged with the outdoor router
Indoor router alt text Connection point for user's devices Order online or collect from mesh room stock $20+
CAT5e cable (outdoor-rated, grounded and shielded) alt text Passing power and data between outdoor router, indoor router and power outlet Available from online retailers in different spool lengths - recommended product $130-150/1000ft
$90-110/500ft
$20-30/100 ft
RJ45 pass through connectors (metal, with grounding loop) alt text Gets crimped onto the ends of the CAT5e cable to provide power and data interface Available from online retailers - recommended product $0.34/connector
Two Ethernet patch cables alt text Connecting routers to POE injector, battery pack, laptop Available from online retailers - recommended product $1.5-2 per <=3ft cable
Portable battery pack with three-prong power outlet (charged) alt text Providing power to outdoor router while surveying for signal Available from online retailers - recommended product (less expensive) / recommended product (better features) $50 for 11,600 mAh
$150 for 46,400 mAh
Gigabit USB/Thunderbolt to Ethernet adapter alt text Connecting laptop without an ethernet port to outdoor router (not needed if connecting wirelessly) Available from online retailers $15

Tools

Product Name Product Photo What it's used for Where you can get it Cost
Ethernet cable crimper (pass through) alt text Attaching RJ-45 connectors to CAT5e cable Online retailers - recommended product $44
CAT5e cable stripper alt text Stripping CAT5e cable Online retailers (included in crimping all-in-one kit) - recommended product $25 for crimping all-in-one kit
Ethernet cable tester alt text Testing that Ethernet cable has been correctly crimped Online retailers - recommended product $10
Spare 9v battery alt text Replacement in case tester is left on Online retailers - recommended product $10
Scissors alt text Cutting CAT5e cable and cable ties Hardware store tools aisle
Needlenose pliers alt text Clamping CAT5e cable ground wire, pulling cable through holes Hardware store tools aisle - recommended product $12
Cordless hammer drill alt text Drilling holes, inserting screws, securing pipe clamps Hardware store tools aisle
Hex socket drill bits (3/8" for hose clamps and 1/4" for masonry screws) alt text Tightening hose clamps, inserting concrete screws Hardware store drill bits aisle
Carbide-tip masonry drill bit (5/32") alt text Drilling holes in concrete or masonry for inserting masonry screws Hardware store drill bits aisle
Cobalt / titanium drill bit (1/4") alt text Drilling hole for CAT5e cable to pass through steel window frame Hardware store drill bits aisle
Hammer alt text Driving in concrete nails Hardware store tools aisle
Concrete nail alt text Starting a hole in concrete or masonry (makes drilling easier) Hardware store nails aisle
Phillips Precision Screwdriver (No. 1) alt text Assembling Litebeam Router Included in crimping all-in-one kit, Hardware store tools aisle
Adjustable crescent wrench (6") alt text Assembling J-pipe mount Hardware store tools aisle
Vise grips alt text Removing stuck drill bits Hardware store tools aisle

Mounting Equipment

Product Name Product Photo Field Photo What it's used for Where you can get it Cost
Small diameter (28) hose clamp alt text alt text Securing the router to a thin mast or pipe Comes with outdoor router, hardware store plumbing aisle
Large diameter (88) hose clamp alt text alt text Securing the router or mast to a large pipe or window guard Hardware store plumbing aisle
J pipe antenna mast alt text alt text Mounting to a wall or parapet Online retailers - recommended product / 10-pack
L pipe antenna mast alt text alt text Orienting an SXT router up and down Online retailers - recommended product
Concrete screws (3/16" hex head CSH316134) alt text alt text Securing mast mounts to concrete or masonry Hardware store screws and anchors aisle
Washers (1/4" hole diameter) alt text alt text Securing mast mounts to concrete or masonry Hardware store fasteners aisle
Zip ties alt text alt text Securing ethernet cable Hardware store electrical aisle
Cable staples alt text alt text Securing ethernet cable to an indoor wall Hardware store electrical aisle
Cable fastener clips alt text alt text Securing ethernet cable to an outdoor vertical surface Hardware store electrical aisle or online retailers - recommended product

Miscellanious supplies

Product Name Product Photo What it's used for Where you can get it
Electrical tape alt text Pulling cable through holes Hardware store adhesives aisle
Weather stripping (9/16" thick or greater) alt text Sealing the bottom of a window when the CAT5e cable is run over the window frame Hardware store insulation aisle
Rubberized waterproof sealant alt text Sealing gaps and holes to prevent water infiltration Hardware store adhesives aisle
WD-40 or other oil alt text Drilling through thicker metals Hardware store
Small brush and dustpan alt text Sweeping up cable ends and metal shavings from drilling through window frame Online retailers
Biodegradable wet wipes alt text Cleaning dirty hands Online retailers - recommended product
Small garbage bag alt text Disposing of garbage Reuse a shopping bag
Hand truck alt text Transporting cable reel box and equipment bag in and out of subway stations - stair-climbing model is ideal! Online retailers, larger hardware stores
Backpack alt text Transporting equipment safely up ladders - slim backpacks are the safest! Many places

Safety gear

Product Name Product Photo What it's used for Where you can get it
Safety Glasses alt text Eye protection while drilling Hardware store apparel aisle
Thick-soled shoes or work boots alt text Protection against sharp objects on rooftops Work wear store
Sunblock and hat (in summer) alt text Preventing sunburn Pharmacy
Cold weather apparel (in winter) alt text Preventing frostbite Clothing store
Water and a snack alt text Staying hydrated and preventing fatigue Grocery store
First aid kit alt text Treating minor injuries Pharmacy
Fully-charged cell phone alt text Communication in case of lockout, team communication, providing mobile hotspot Charge at home

Etiquette

for volunteer installers

As a volunteer installer, you are the public face of NYCMesh! Courtesy, respect, friendliness and professionalism will give new members a great first impression of our organization and will encourage them to become active contributors to our community.

Before the Install

Check the weather forecast the day before the install. If you have to cancel due to weather conditions, inform the install team on slack, email the installee member and send them a link to reschedule their appointment.

Before leaving for the install, hydrate and eat something. Bring bottled water and a snack with you.

Turn on push notifications on the slack app to communicate efficiently with your fellow installers.

Check MTA delays and allow sufficient time to get to the install. If you can’t help being late, call or text the installee member and update your co-installers on slack.

When You Arrive at the Node Site

When meeting the installee member, introduce yourself by name and explain how you plan to carry out the install. Ask them if they have any questions and confirm that they will be able to host you for the expected duration of the install. Be polite and friendly!

Be sensitive to cultural and social differences, such as:

For rooftop installs, ask your installee member to lead you to their roof. If they are unable to do so, ask them to explain how to access the roof and request that they point out any hazards.

Ask your installee member to show you around their apartment. Ask where the bathroom is in case you need to use it. Remember to respect the member’s privacy.

Discuss options for cabling into the apartment with your installee member during your initial tour of their apartment. Ask for permission before carrying out any drilling.

Consider taking your boots off inside the apartment. Some apartments insist on this, and also your boots are probably dirty. Molten tar on roofs is a big problem in summer and will stick to everything. Snow in winter will melt.

During the Install

The install leader will assign tasks as per volunteers abilities. Minimal time should be wasted.

Maintain a tidy workspace. Clean up as you go. Keep an eye on wire casings you've stripped off.

Carry out the install quickly and efficiently but do not rush or compromise safety. Do not goof off or waste time.

If you need to move anything, ask permission or ask them to help you if they are able.

If you run into installation issues and feel frustrated, try to maintain a positive attitude when communicating with the member and with your fellow installers. Resolve issues efficiently and post questions to the #install-team slack channel.

If the install is taking longer than planned, tell the installee member. Confirm they will be able to host you for the extended install duration.

If for any reason you need to halt the install (eg. weather, unsafe conditions, night falling), respectfully explain the situation to the installee member.

At the End of the Install

Take photos of the install setup, the install team and the installee member (make sure to ask permission first). Photos are used to evaluate the install for problems, and the best photos are tweeted.

After finishing the install, have a friendly conversation with your member about the mission of NYCMesh and encourage them to get involved as a volunteer. Invite them to our next meetup. Avoid excessive casual conversation during install as this can increase install time by hours.

Politely remind your member to pay the labor fee and the installation fee.

Pat yourself on the back! You just helped NYCMesh grow by another node!

Fiber install guidelines

In order to avoid problems with fiber install quality, the following guidelines should be followed:

Fiber Safety

1. Intro

1.1 Description

Although fiber is a relatively safe material to work with, there are some hazards to be aware of. These hazards can be particularly troublesome since bare fiber is microscopic and transparent; it is nearly impossible to detect if you lose track of your scraps.

They come in two forms:

  1. fiber scrap
  2. fiber shard

1.2 Details

There are some details to keep in mind while reading this page:

  1. The fiber cable refers to the glass fiber, cladded and wrapped by both inner and outer jackets.
  2. Bare fiber refers to the glass core that is left after stipping the outer and inner jackets as well as the cladding.
  3. The cable is spooled in the package; the curvature is a hazard as the cable will bend back quickly when straightened out.
  4. Bare fiber is extremely fragile.
  5. Positioning the fiber on the cleaver or splicer is a delicate operation. The fiber is likely to poke a hard surface and bend, leading to breakage. If not careful when unclamping the cable, it will jump out of the tool and back into shape as mentioned in (3).
  6. Once fiber gets in your body, it may never leave as it neither decays or get broken down by the immune system.
  7. Using a microscope to locate fiber is only possible on skin and is extremely challenging due to the scale, the elasticity of skin, and uneven surface of the skin.
  8. The hazards can also affect others who are currently in the space or will be in the future.

2. Fiber Scrap

2.1 Description:

A piece of fiber scrap is a segment of bare fiber which gets created while cleaving or accidentally breaking bare fiber. Scraps can break down into smaller segments or into shards. They are the easier pieces to keep track of due to their length. If a scrap disapears, shining a flash light at different angles on a surface will produce a segment shaped glimmer if it hits a scrap.

As shown in the pictures bellow, the amount of light and angle at which it hits the scrap affects the visibility. Note that these are two different pieces of scrap, which were found by closely inspecting the surfaces using a flashlight.

scrap across table scrap on table scrap on chair

2.2 Hazards:

There are two ways in which scraps are hazardous; pricking and snapping.

2.3 Potential consequences

3. Fiber Shards

3.1 Description:

Fiber shards are microscopic glass shrads; similar to fiberglass dust. They are nearly impossible to track due to their size; the smallest shards can be measured in micrometers (1 micrometer is 1/1000th of a millimeter).

3.2 Hazards:

2.3 Potential consequences

4. DOS AND DON'TS

DO:

DON'T:

5. RECAP

Hazard origins

Cleaving
-> scrap
-> shards

Cutting cable
-> shards

Snapping scrap
-> scrap
-> shards

Stripping jacket/cladding
-> shards

Hazards

Scrap
-> pricking
-> ingestion

Shards
-> inhalation
-> ingestion
-> skin, eye contact

Potential Health Consequences

Ingestion -> inflamation, internal hemorage

Inhalation -> airway inflamation

Pricking -> infection

Skin, eye contact -> inflamation

Bonus

Although risks are low for a few installs, over the long run, some installers may want to take more precautions. An extremely safe setup for the most risk averse of installers would be a DIY fume extractor. This setup is compact and mitigates all of the hazards mentioned in the previous sections.

The plexiglass walls contain any dust in a small area, the gloves protect the installer's skin and clothes, and the negative presure fan ensures proper ventilation. In addition, hooks and magnets can be used to keep some tools organized and permanently inside the container (e.g. stripping tool, tzeezers, alcohol pads...). In order to perform a splice near the ceiling, some mechanism needs to be used to strap the container atop a ladder (unless the installer considers a baker scaffolding affordable and convenient)

Equipment list:

  1. 6 18*24 acrylic sheets + acrylic cement + small hinges OR large, clear plastic box (plastic box may not be as practical as custom acrylic box)
  2. 4 inch hole saw
  3. 4 inch pvc pipe
  4. plastic epoxy
  5. 2 worm clamps (for the gloves on the extractor)
  6. gooseneck arms with aligator clips
  7. nonslip pads
  8. arm-length gloves
  1. vaccum/fan with ~40ft 4 inch vent hose
  2. 4 worm clamps (2 for window adaptor to fan, 2 for fan to extractor)
  3. portable ac window adapter

6. Resources

Fiber Splicing Tutorial

1. Intro

These instructions assume only the required tools are used, and minimal precautions taken; no assumptions about safety equipment or convenient tools.

There are 7 procedures to perform in the splicing process; roughly in the following order:

  1. setup
  2. strip cable to bare fiber
  3. cleave bare fiber
  4. fuse
  5. test
  6. apply heat to shrink sleeve and tube
  7. clean up

Procedures 2 and 3 will be performed twice; once for each of the two cables. However, one side will need to have more outer jacket stripped off to make room for the shrink sleeve; to move it out of the splicer. The side on which the sleeve will be is refered to as Side With Sleeve (SWS), and the other as Side WithOut Sleeve (SWOS). Note that the sequence will be strip SWS, cleave SWS, position SWS in splicer, AND THEN strip SWOS, cleave SWOS and position SWOS in splicer. That sequence minimizes the risks of mishandling each cable, which could result in one or both of 1) a fiber splinter and 2) breaking the bare fiber; either of which could require starting the process over for that cable since even if the bare fiber did not break, if it has been cleaved, poking any surface could ruin the cut.

During procedure 4, the fibers may need to be repositioned multiple times to align the fiber correctly. This is because, as noted in the fiber safety page (detail 3 to consider), the cable is curved; making this part challenging since the cable needs to be positioned straight and precisely.

Procedure 5 is performed before 6 since it would be a waste of time and resources to shrink the shrink sleeve and the shrink tube if the splice needs to be redone.

2. Steps with pictures

Bellow are pictures taken through out the splicing process. (the ordering numbers come from the detailed list in the next section)

  1. Stripping the outer jacket of SWS:

  1. Stripping the inner jacket of SWS:

  1. Positioning the stripped SWS in the cleaver:

  1. Positioning the cleaved SWS in the splicer:

16-17) Stripping the outer and inner jackets of SWOS:

  1. Positioning the cleaved SWOS in the splicer:

  1. Read splicer screen to view the quality of the splice and an estimate of signal loss:

  1. Test splice:

  1. Place shrink sleeve over the fused, bare fiber and move the whole to the splicer's heating compartment to shrink the sleeve:

  1. Verify that the sleeve has in fact shrunk (may need to heat 1-3 times):

The result:

3. Detailed list of steps

3.1 Prep

  1. prepare all the equipment required; includes tools and any PPE.

  2. cut shrink tube (20cm).

  3. prepare shrink sleeve.

  4. mark location to cut on cable from each side.

  5. slide shrink tube down either cable.

3.2 Begin Process

  1. Take a cable from either side; this cable will be the side with the shrink sleeve (SWS), the other will be the side with out the sleeve (SWOS).

  2. Strip outer jacket of SWS (12cm) and cut kevlar.

  3. Slide shrink sleeve over inner jacket of SWS.

  4. Strip inner jacket of SWS (2cm) into sharps container.

  5. Strip cladding of SWS into sharps container and apply alcohol pad.

  6. Cleave SWS.

  7. Use tweezers to pick up fiber fragment and drop into sharps container; verify that the segment was indeed in the tweezers all the way to the sharps container, and that it fell in the container before putting the tweezers down.

  8. Position SWS in fusion splicer.

  9. Use tape to clean any potential glass pieces around and between cleaver and sharps container (if they are not moved before cleaving the other side, this can be done after the second cable is cleaved).

  10. Take SWOS.

  11. Strip outer jacket of SWOS (5cm) and cut kevlar.

  12. Strip inner jacket of SWOS (2cm).

  13. Strip cladding of SWOS and apply alcohol pad.

  14. Cleave SWOS.

  15. Use tweezers to pick up fiber fragment and drop into sharps container; verify that the segment was indeed in the tweezer all the way to the sharps container, and that it fell in the container before putting the tweezers down.

  16. Clamp SWOS and position it in fusion splicer (clamp to reduce movement when removing the splicer clamp; due to cable curve).

  17. Use tape to clean any potential glass pieces around and between cleaver and sharps container.

  18. Fuse cables.

  19. Connect cable ends to testing devices and test signal loss.

  20. Carefully release each cable from splicer clamps.

  21. Slide shrink sleeve over exposed fiber and place in splicer's heating compartment; sleeve should cover each side roughly 3cm from joint.

  22. Heat 2-3 times.

  23. Slide shrink tube over shrunk sleeve; the shrink tube must leave no inner jacket exposed.

  24. Shrink shrink tube with lighter while adjusting grip to ensure the shrink tube cools straight; may consider using solder clamps for this step.

3.3 Clean and pack up

  1. Use tape to clean each piece of equipment and put them back in toolbox

  2. Fold tape in half, sticky side in, to trap any potential glass pieces.

  3. Dispose of tape and pack up the rest of equipment.

4. Template

In order to strip jackets quickly and precisely the installer should make a template, such as the one shown bellow.

stripping template

Note that the template in the picture is crowded to illustrate the instructions in section 3; a color coded stick may be easier to work with.

Stick template example (1 dash = 1cm):

< - - - -0- - - - >< -1- >< -2- - >< - - -3- - - - >< - - - -4- - - - >

0: no color -> 8cm; Space for palm of hand.

1: green -> 2cm; Strip inner jacket of both SWS and SWOS.

2: white -> 3cm; green + white = 5cm to strip SWOS outer jacket.

3: yellow -> 7cm; green + white + yellow = 12cm to strip SWS outer jacket.

4: black -> 8cm; green + white + yellow + black = 20cm to cut shrink tubing.

The following pictures show the measurements used to determine the lengths. Note that template lengths are longer to leave ample room for errors.

The pictures show that:

cleaver pads under ruler

shrinksleeve on ruler

splicer measurement

Fiber to the Apartment

The first step is to screw the ONT into the wall in a convenient place using drywall achors. The ONT we are currently using is the Ubiquiti UF-WiFi6-US

Only use white fiber inside apartments, never yellow or any other color. This is to better blend in with the wall. We have custom made 3mm white fiber with termination at one end.

Once the ONT is screwed into the wall, plug in the terminated end of the white fiber. Now you are ready to run the fiber to the exit point (usually above the front door). You first run the fiber down to the top of the baseboard and then along to the nearest corner, attaching it to the wall with silicone or staples. You run the cable up the corner to the ceiling and follow along the corner of the ceiling to the exit point using silicone or staples along the way.

Ufiber ONT

As always with fiber, don't do any hard bends! Let the fiber curve around corners.

There is no loose fiber in the apartment, just a service loop above the door. All the fiber is locked down with silicone or staples the whole way. Any loose fiber will result in service calls. Excess fiber is pulled back into the apartment and left as a service loop above the door. Trim the yellow raceway fiber down before splicing so it one foot from the entry point. Use excess white fiber to enable the splice.

At the exit point you drill a small hole (6mm?) and feed the unterminated end of the fiber through to the raceway. The fiber will be spliced outside of the apartment either with a fusion splicer or with a mechanical splice. The hole must be sealed after you're finished!

The new ONT has a built in router so install it near a power outlet and you are done. You will need to log into the OLT to configure the router

The older model ONT is powered by connecting it to a POE injector, and connecting the data port to a TP-Link/Archer home router.

Support

[to be expanded!]

Fiber support is fairly straightforward. First do the usual test of the wifi router to eliminate that as the problem. Next test the signal going into the ONT by unplugging the connector and connecting it to your meter.

Test db of signal using an OTDR or optical power meter (OPM). The signal should be between -22db to -10db. Less than -24db and the signal is too weak. -8db is the highest limit that will work.

If the signal is outside of the range of -22 to -10 you need to look for where signal loss is occurring. This is typically the splice in the raceway or damaged fiber that has been bent.

Light fiber with red test signal using the OPM or OTDR. This is done from the hallway access box.

Look for loss along the way, especially in the raceway splice. Redo splice if signal loss is there. If the cable is damaged elsewhere, splice around the damage.

Linknyc

There are currently ongoing discussions with LinkNYC with the goal of having a deeper and more persistent connection to their network. Information on this page may become out of date in the near future. For updates see #linknyc on the slack

We do not install LinkNYC Kiosk repeaters as they are not as reliable as a mesh connection. We still support DIY kiosk repeaters through our Slack group.

If you are too far away from an access point to get a good connection, you can use a directional router to connect to Link NYC. We recommend using a Mikrotik SXTsq G-5acD international version. The LinkNYC kiosks use DFS channels which, although legal and FCC approved, aren't supported in some USA versions of hardware.

To use the SXTsq 5 ac you need to get the international version and configure it according to our detailed instructions.

Here is the link to buy the SXTsq. Make sure to specify international.

With all these gateways we get lots of questions about security. As always, https (used by most web sites) is a secure way to transmit information across wifi.

Post Install (New Member Form)

This is a template form to print and leave with members with their WiFi information, install/node number and other details. It also provides links to our support channels if they have any issues.

Our Mesh Guide also includes a page to write down this information. Otherwise writing the WiFi information on a piece of paper is also acceptable.

Remember to write down the administrator (management) password for WiFi router. This is important if the member needs to change their WiFi password later. (Most installers have a standard password that they use, but it's helpful to have a record so we don't need to reset the router if we don't know it)

NYC Mesh Post Install Form

Network Number

This page works best in incognito/private window mode!

Enter the Install Number* below to get the NN that can be used to configure the rooftop antennas/routers. This can also be used with existing multiple apartment installs to figure out the network number (NN) for the roof/building you are connected to.



*The Install Number is the number you received in an email right after you registered. If you can't find the email with your Install Number please contact us.

If you have the password you can assign a NN for an install number

Install Number:



We have changed the way "Node Numbers" work and we're now using the term NN or "Network Number".

Previously each registration would receive a Node Number. This number would be used to configure the devices. For example used in the litebeam naming and in the OmniTik configuration. The Node Number was used to generate the IP address range used by the OmniTik device. Many registrations do not end up being installed and thus a lot of addresses are being “blocked” as reserved for those Node Numbers, Nodes associated with persons. We gave ourselves a limit of 8192 “nodes”. This in order to “save” the IP range above, for further usage.

We need now to start using the unused or unassigned IPs in the lower range.

From now on, when a person registers, they receive an Install Number (or install request number). A person can register for several addresses and receive several Install Numbers. An Install Number can be seen a bit like a work-order. When devices are being configured and installed, they will receive a Network Number or NN, different from the Install Number. The IPs for an OmniTik device will be generated out of the Network Number (NN). A member thus will have an Install number and a NN. It is possible that for some installations the Network Number and the Install Number are the same number. The second member connected to the same node (Network Number) will have a different Install number.

The Install Number is associated with a member. When installed it is linked to a Network Number. The Network Number is associated with a building number (street address / BIN ). A building can have several Network Numbers in the event that it has for technical reasons 2 or more “nodes”. When a member moves, the Network Number stays with the building (especially when there are other members connected to this Network Number (Node). The moving member will register with their new street address and will receive a new Install Number.



Examples

John D. Install Number 2000, is connected to node with Network Number 5000
Elis W. Insall Number 3000, is also connected to node with Network Number 5000
Node with Network Number 5000 is on the building at address 55 Main Street.

John D. has also Install Number 4000, is connected to node with Network Number 6000
Node with Network Number 6000 is on the building at address 102 Down Street.

Nyc Mesh Fiber Background And Splicing Guide

NYC Mesh Fiber Background and Splicing Guide

​ These are notes collected by @JohnB from the fiber splicing class taught by Zach Giles at the NYC Mesh room on July 19, 2022. I took notes on my phone, so some of the information might be missing/inaccurate. ​

Theory

Fiber Splicing Guide

​

Resources

Omnitik Power Problems

Alignment and wind

We've had many antennas lose alignment in the wind. There's a few simple things you can do to prevent this-

  1. Use a socket and drill to tighten hose clamps fast. It's hard to get the hose clamp tight with a screw driver. A socket and drill will get it really tight. You'll need a socket set that has both american and metric sockets.

  2. Put one layer of electrical tape under the hose clamp. This can help stop slipping, especially on smooth j-pipes like the Ubiquiti ones.

  3. Make sure pipe mounts can't twist by putting a bolt through them. You'll need a set of metal drill bits (such as titanium) and some 2 1/2" long 1/4" bolts.

If you can move the LiteBeam with your hands, it will also move in the wind. The LiteBeam LR needs even more care to stop it from moving.

Bad crimps

Ethernet testers aren't perfect so you need to check your crimps visually-

  1. Wires are in correct order!
  2. All wires are pushed all the way to the end
  3. All pins are pushed down after crimping (important!)
  4. The cable jacket is just inside the RJ-45

If the first three things are correct the cable will work! The jacket being inside the rj-45 gives it a bit more strength.

It is possible that the cable tester will wrongly say it is fine even if the wires aren't at the end and the pins aren't all down.

The crimping tool's job is to push the pins into the wires. Look at the pins before and after crimping and you should see that they are all pushed down by the same amount. Some crimping tools are incompatible with the toughcable jacket and are unable to push the pins down evenly. We recommend this crimper

Not enough cable

To save carrying a full box of cable many installers take a roll of cable (and occasionally not enough)

Here’s a short guide to help:

  1. Tough cable is marked every meter. Each box is 305m so if the end says 255m you have 50m left
  2. 50 meters of cable is enough to do an average install
  3. Each floor adds about 3 meters to the length
  4. Member’s floor info is now on the schedule to help with calculation
  5. Each extra apartment adds about 20m + floor calculation
  6. 100m is the max length for Cat5 cable. (data loss and voltage loss is too much)
  7. If you have a roll, you can measure one loop and multiply by the number of loops

1 meter = 3 feet

OmniTik power problems

The biggest confusion with OmniTiks is that one model has POE out (OmniTik POE) and one doesn't. They both look the same. There is obscure print near the ethernet ports that will tell you if it is ethernet out. OmniTik POE has a much larger power injector and this must be used to power it. If you accidentally power it with a smaller adapter it will work but the LiteBeam will occasionally reboot.

Sometimes the OmniTik won't automatically power the LiteBeam. You can force on the power by going to Webfig>Interfaces>ether5 and select "PoE Out: forced on". Also check that you are using the correct power injector for the Omni as this can also cause this problem. If the "PoE Out" option is missing you have the wrong kind of OmniTik!

Use electrical tape to tape the small DC power cable to the white injector after plugging it in. This often comes undone causing all sorts of problems. The DC power cable is the same as the tp-link DC cable, and will break the tp-link if you plug it into that instead.

The OmniTik should plug directly into a wall, not a power strip

Taking Panorama Photos

A direct line of sight to a Supernode or hub node is required to connect to NYC Mesh. To help the install team determine whether a line of sight is possible, we ask new members to provide a panoramic photo of the view from their rooftop. We use these photos to identify an existing hub/node to which your building can connect.

Where to find the panorama photo function on your phone

Most cell phone cameras have panoramic photo capability in camera mode.

iPhone

On iPhones, this feature will be a scrollable option on the bottom of the camera screen.

alt text

Android

On Android phones, this feature may be listed under “more” or “...”.

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Taking a good panorama image

Rooftop panorama images should show as much of the surrounding skyline and other buildings as possible. We are looking to see if any of our existing hubs or supernodes are visible from your rooftop. For this reason please take your panorama photos from the highest point on the roof if possible (and safe!).

If you are also willing and able, please feel free to annotate cardinal directions (North, South, East, West) and other nearby landmarks (nearby streets, lower Manhattan, midtown, prospect park, etc) This helps our volunteers get their bearings and figure out which direction your photos are looking.

Best practices for roof panoramas

Best practices for DIY window panoramas

Examples of good panorama photos

alt text alt text alt text

231-north.jpg

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Examples of unusable panorama photos

image0(2).jpeg
Photo taken in the evening, too dark. Can't see anything.

pano-glare.jpg
Too much glare from the sun. Need to re-take photo closer to midday.

Screenshot_20230129_064318.png

Photo is too low quality, can't see any details. (May need to re-take photo with a better camera or try re-sending as an attachment instead of inserting into the email.)

Query

This page works best in incognito/private window mode!

This is for installers to query our install spreadsheet. This is password protected.

If you have trouble running this script, try using an incognito (private) window in your browser

This uses simple matching for addresses. Type the number and street name, e.g. "123 Smith St". Don't enter a complete address! For NN, install number and email it uses exact matches.







Safety

Growing the mesh is important, but so is staying safe to install more nodes. These are general safety guidelines intended to address more common hazards on an install, but keep an eye out for risks even if they are not covered here.

What to Bring to Site

In addition to standard installation equipment, bring the following gear to ensure safety on site:

Traveling to and from Site

Be aware of your surroundings at all times. If you feel unsafe traveling to a particular location, consider meeting up with co-installers beforehand and traveling together.

Site Survey

alt text

Ask your member to tell you about any hazards on site.

During your site survey, note potential hazards and tell your fellow installers. These may include:

Working with Others

Take responsibility for your own safety first but make sure to watch out for your co-installers.

If you are an install team leader, understand the capabilities of your fellow installers and assign tasks they are comfortable doing.

Inform your fellow installers of any medical conditions that could impact the install.

If you are asked to do something you find unsafe, respectfully decline the task and propose an alternate method.

Weather

Read the weather forecast the day of the survey. If there is a high likelihood of poor conditions, cancel the install.

In case of heavy rain, thunder or lightning, leave the roof immediately and cancel the install.

During hot weather, stay hydrated and protect your skin with sunblock. Take breaks indoors or in the shade. Recognize the signs of heat exposure, such as dizziness, nausea, headache, confusion, and rapid, shallow breathing.

During winter, tread carefully to avoid slips and falls on ice. Stay away from icy patches when possible.

During cold conditions, protect your skin with appropriate outerwear and take breaks indoors to warm up. Recognize the signs of cold stress, such as uncontrolled shivering, slurred speech, clumsy movements, fatigue and confused behavior.

During windy conditions, keep lightweight equipment inside a bag so that it does not blow off the roof.

References and further reading:

Avoiding Falls

alt text

Rooftops present various falling hazards. Exercise caution while working on rooftops at all times.

Ask your member about any hazards in advance of entering the rooftop.

Move carefully and watch where you are walking at all times. Try to avoid stepping backwards.

Keep yourself and your equipment away from the edge of the roof whenever possible.

Step carefully over or around loose cables, debris and other tripping hazards.

Don’t grasp or put any weight onto unstable parapet walls or fences.

Do not step on, lean against or put any weight on skylights. Do not place any equipment on skylights.

When working near the edge of the roof, maintain visual awareness of the edge at all times. Do not work facing away from the edge.

Keep off steeply pitched surfaces.

References and further reading:

Access Hazards and Confined Spaces

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Understand egress (exit) routes from the rooftop space. If there is a door or a hatch, make sure that it does not lock behind you. Prop open if necessary.

Avoid entering confined or narrow spaces.

References and further reading:

Fixed Ladders to the Rooftop

Inspect the ladder prior to using it. Make sure it is secured to the wall and that rungs are stable and not slippery.

Only one person on the ladder at a time.

When climbing through a narrow passage, make sure to take off any loose-fitting clothing. If carrying a backpack, ensure you have enough clearance behind you.

Always maintain 3-point contact (i.e. only let go and move one hand or one foot at a time). Do not carry anything that compromises your ability to grip the ladder or could cause you to become imbalanced.

Work together with your co-installer to pass equipment up to the top or bottom of the ladder. Inform your co-installer of the weight of anything you are passing to them. Make sure they securely grip the equipment before letting go.

Face the ladder when climbing.

References and further reading:

Temporary Ladders

Inspect the ladder prior to using it. Use the ladder only on a stable and level surface..

Always maintain 3-point contact. Do not carry anything that compromises your ability to grip the ladder or could cause you to become imbalanced.

Never stand on the top step, the paint tray, or thin support struts on the back which are not meant to be stepped on.

The proper angle for setting up a straight ladder (not the self-supporting A-frame type) is to place its base a quarter of the working length of the ladder from the wall.

Do not place a ladder on boxes, barrels or other unstable bases.

If using an extension ladder, make sure the locks are engaged on both sides.

References and further reading:

Electrical and Cable Safety**

alt text

The equipment used in a typical install is classified as low-voltage beyond the electrical outlet adapter. Low-voltage electrical circuits still present a shock hazard.

While the shock from a low-voltage cable may not cause serious injury by itself, it could cause you to jump or lose balance, which could result in a fall.

Learn to identify high-voltage electrical equipment and stay away from it.

Be careful to not cut or drill through concealed piping or wires. Make a small inspection before starting to cut or drill.

Keep cables away from power wires, lightning rods, transformers, hot pipes and mechanical rooftop equipment such as air conditioning units. These things can get hot and melt the coating off our cables.

Never install wiring during electrical storms.

Use tools with non-conducting handles.

Make sure to secure cable to rooftop and wall surfaces, and keep it out of the way as much as possible. Do not create a tripping hazard for your member or other building users.

Make sure to clean up cable sheathing after stripping. A pet or child might eat them if left on the floor.

References and further reading:

Drill Usage

Inspect the drilling area before starting to identify any objects that might get in the way, such as electrical cables, nails or staples.

Get a secure footing when operating the drill. Do not overreach.

Select the correct bit. (See installation slide deck)

Make sure you are using the right bit for the material you are drilling into and ensure the drill bit is in good condition.

Tighten the chuck securely.

Use eye protection, especially when drilling through metal. Metal will shred, and shards could fly into your eye.

Keep the drill away from water. Move the drill to a dry location if it starts to rain.

Clean the drill bit after operation.

Report any damage or defects to the tool owner if you are borrowing it.

References and further reading:

Moving furniture

Coordinate the moving of any heavy furniture with the member.

Before moving anything, plan the move and communicate the plan it to your member or fellow installer. Consider where you will pick it up, where you will move it and identify any tripping hazards.

Make sure nothing will fall off the furniture you are moving or that moving the furniture will not cause something else to fall.

Get as close to the load as possible. While lifting upwards, keep your back straight and your knees bent, and do not twist your body.

Do not lift anything that is too heavy for you to pick up in a smooth motion.

If moving any outdoor items (for example air conditioner supports), pick up cautiously as there may be insects underneath.

References and further reading:

Asbestos

Buildings in New York City may contain asbestos. Learn how to identify materials that may contain friable asbestos and avoid exposure (see link below).

Asbestos is considered to be not dangerous unless damaged or disturbed, which can release fibers into the air.

A general rule of thumb is to assume asbestos may be present in homes built before 1980.

Materials that commonly contain asbestos include:

Learn how to visually identify asbestos. Here is one resource: https://web.archive.org/web/20220821044546/https://merryhill.co.uk/what-does-asbestos-look-like/

References and further reading:

Liability

The property owner may face liability for any injury. Maintaining safe work practices helps protect your member as well as yourself and your fellow installers!

Read more about homeowner liability here: https://realestate.findlaw.com/owning-a-home/homeowner-liability-safety.html

Further Reading

Surveys

title: "Site surveys"

Site surveys for large buildings help us determine if wireless connection is possible and how we will run cable to apartments. Take photos at each step as you go through the building.

Mounting points on roof

Identify the best mounting points on the roof.

Bandwidth test

Take a battery and do a bandwidth test to the hub or hubs that they are planning to connect to

(This might not be possible if the mounting point is in the water tower)

Conduit or drop point for cable from roof to basement

For large buildings we need to run cable from the roof to the basement. Try to identify existing conduits we can use. We can't use ISP's conduits, unless the building owns them.

Telecom closet access

All large buildings have a telecom closet in the basement. This is one place we might put a panel and run our cables from there.

Raceways into apartments

Hallways often have conduits running where the wall meets the ceiling. This is called a raceway. See if this is owned by the building and we can use that.

Unused wiring that we could use.

Often there is unused or abandoned wiring that we can use. This might be ethernet, coax or even fiber. This will save a huge amount of time and money if we can identify that.

Documentation

When finished, write up a google doc of the survey with embedded photos. We often share these as pdf's with the interested building managers.

Typical Install Diagram (Omni & Litebeam)

The purpose of this diagram is to give a technical overview of the typical LiteBeam + Omnitik5ac install described in the Typical Installations page - scenario 2

NOTES

Typical Install Diagram (Omni-only)

The purpose of this diagram is to give a technical overview of an Omnitik5ac-only install. This type of install should only be done if it is impractical to also install a LightBeamAC (e.g. no line-of-sight to a hub). Both types of installations (with and without LiteBeamAC) are depicted in the Typical Installations page - scenario 2 

NOTES

Typical Installs

Please read our FAQ if you haven't already.

The intention of this page is not to be technical but rather give to the non-technical person an understanding of a typical installation.

NYC Mesh is an "over the air" network. The aim is to connect rooftop to rooftop using different types of equipment based on geography and topology. And in doing so, to expand NYC Mesh network coverage to the next block and so on*. The idea of NYC Mesh is to share the connectivity with neighbors, share resources, share equipment, share the network. Create a community of communities connecting to each other.

NYC Mesh typically uses two categories of equipment.

*Note: In some cases, such as large buildings we may use fiber to connect but would setup a rooftop "hub" to expand the network to surrounding neighbors.




1.- Connect to a hub or supernode (one apartment - no roof-to-roof expansion). Such installation does not allow expansion of the Mesh network, nor allow sharing with neighbor community

A typical installation has a LiteBeam antenna on the roof. From that antenna an ethernet cable is run to the apartment. (note: the antenna is sometimes referred to as the outdoor router).

photo       photo

Depending on the roof it can be mounted on an old TV antenna pole, on an added pole, a wall, a chimney, or any existing infrastructure.

photo photo photo photo

In the apartment any type of WiFi router can be installed. We install a TP-Link router.



2.- Connect to a hub or supernode (one or several apartments - with roof-to-roof expansion). Allow Mesh network expansion and sharing with the neighbor community

To allow others to connect to your rooftop LiteBeam router we need to add an ethernet router and an access point. For this we usually use an OmniTik mounted on the same pole or it can be mounted somewhere else on the roof. The OmniTik will give you wifi on your roof and also allow 4 other apartments to connect with ethernet.

photo       photo

The OmniTik is an Omnidirectional (360°) antenna. It has about 2-3 block radius. We connect the Litebeam to the OmniTik and apartments to the OmniTik via ethernet.

photo photo photo

OmniTik not located next to the Litebeam
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Other rooftops can connect to the OmniTik by using another Omnitik if they are close enough or we use, in some cases, an SXT.

This setup as a major benefit. It allows the devices to mesh with each other. If an other Omnitik is installed in a 2-3 blocks radius they will connect to each other and create a mesh, thus improving reliability and allowing a) the Mesh network to expand, and b) the neighbor community to use it to access internet.



3.- A good rooftop can be "beefed up" to allow for more connectivity.

If the rooftop is interesting (at a good location, it's high enough, etc) we may install "sectors" or other type of equipement. Sectors are antennas that communicate via Ubiquiti's AirMax protocol and have a longer range than an OmniTik. Additionally, we may connect to two hubs, etc....

Here are four examples.

photo photo photo photo



4.- A building can connect to another building with an OmniTik using a different antenna

A building can connect to another building with an OmniTik using a SXT antenna. It can then serve one or several apartments.

photo photo



Those are typical installations. Other setups are possible and in use throughout NYC Mesh.

For the most up-to-date overview of the entire install process, check out the Install Training Presentation.

Unistrut mounting

STRUT CHANNEL.pdf

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Non-Penetrating Roof Mounts/Stands

EZ NP-72-200 (Amazon):

Model: EZ NP-72-200
Manufacturer:
 Easy-Up
Link:
 Amazon Link
Price:  175$

PXL_20240114_171102647.jpgPXL_20240114_205023878.jpg

PXL_20240114_164337980.jpg

Cheaper stand, includes a mast as well. Feels solid enough for a LiteBeam + Omni, AF60LR, WaveLR or other medium sized antenna. Would probably be reluctant to mount something heavy like a AF24 on it. Maybe mounted low would be fine.

Can hold a max of 8 concrete blocks. (Without stacking them)

Comes with a nice thick recycled (I think) black rubber mat to protect the roof, which is slightly larger than the frame of the stand.

Not the biggest fan of the design. Mast is offset, not centered on the base so there's one direction in which the stand is more likely to topple over. The frame has 3 arms, with a 4 sided base. Should have had 4 arms extending to each corner of the base.

Also whoever decided that filling the box with packing peanuts was a good idea deserves to be fired. Can't open the box on a roof or anywhere windy for fear of packing peanuts going everywhere.

The stand has a collar for mast at the top, but attaches to the bottom of the mast with hole drilled through and a screw. Has some amount of leveling adjustment, but not as much as stands with two collars. Has 3 adjustment bolts per collar.

The mast comes with the tripod and collar parts already assembled, which saves time and confusion. The base is made of angled metal. All screws are the same size, so no worries about mixing them up. Gloves are highly recommended for assembly, lots of sharp metal edges.
Instructions don't have a picture. That would be nice to have.


Wade Antenna NPRM-2:

Model: NPRM-2
Manufacturer:
 Wade Antenna
Link:

Product Page Link
Anixter (Supplier Purchase Link)

TVAntenna.com (Supplier Purchase Link)
Price:  233.50$ (TVAntenna.com)
371.00$ (Anixter previous quote/purchase)
Assembly Instructions:
 Link

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Made in Canada and there's somewhat limited places to purchase it. Last time we purchased from Anixter, but TVAntenna.com seems to have better prices.
Doesn't include a mast.

Can hold 12 concrete blocks max without stacking them, 6 per side.
Used this stand to hold a AF24 + Sectors at Sunset Park Library. Would trust this stand for larger antennas, though would still not mount a Siklu or anything that requires precision alignment. It still has some flex and will probably have issues with alignment on super narrow bandwidth antennas.
Also this stand has wind loading charts from the manufacturer, to plan the amount of concrete blocks required.

Has flanges at the top and bottom to hold the mast. Allows angle adjustment/leveling of the mast by adjusting the 4 bolts on each collar. The bottom flange prevents the bottom of the mast from hitting the roof directly. This stand has 4 arms that extend down from the top flange to the 4 corners of the base.

Assembling this stand can be a little tricky. The instructions are pretty good, though it uses 4 different sizes/lengths of bolts, which are not interchangeable. Need to pay close attention to which bolts should be used where. The bolts are somewhat cheap, we managed to shear one of them during the assembly when we wrenched down too tight. The stand comes completely disassembled.
Getting the arms attached to the upper collar and then lined up with the holes in the frame was somewhat difficult. Had to bend the arms a little bit to get stuff to align as the factory bends were not exactly right. (somehow...)

There is a rubber map (additional 19.50$) which protects the roof under the stand. It's a little thin, white and could be a bit more beefy but it seems to do the job. Not sure how well it's going to hold on in the weather, will need to check back in a year or so. Could probably just buy a recycled rubber sheet of the right size that would be tougher.

Window Drilling Guide

All of our installs usually require getting a cable from the outside to the inside of a building eventually... Drilling through the window frame or lip is the most common way to do this, as it's much easier than drilling through a thick brick wall.
This guide is intended to share knowledge and help familiarize new installers with the types of windows that are common in NYC buildings, along examples of techniques. Many installers find the idea of drilling holes in someone else's house to be daunting, so following along on installs and seeing how other lead installers do it as well it a great supplement to this guide.

 

Brooklyn Standard Window (Metal Frame):

We call this the Brooklyn Standard Window as it's very common in the pre/post war brownstones around Brooklyn. It can be identified by the large lip on the bottom inside of the window, they are usually metal and usually black. They also usually open at both the top and bottom.

These windows tend to have a lot of play and big tolerances in the bottom sliding pane, meaning that by drilling through the metal lip at the bottom of the window, you can pass the cable through and the window will generally still close and lock. 
The metal lip on the bottom can be drilled from both the inside or outside.


<Insert Photo of Brooklyn Standard Window here>


Below is a variation of the Brooklyn Standard Window (that's also white), this time with a piece of wooden trim on the inside. This trim prevents you from drilling from the inside out, without making a big mess of the trim. The track for this situation is drilling a horizontal hole through the metal lip from the outside in, then meeting it with a hole drilled downwards at an angle through the trim.
PXL_20240203_193525256.jpgPXL_20240203_193509382.jpg

The end result still looks good though, and the hole is drilled low enough in the lip that the window can still close and lock. The holes are caulked shut and the cable is arranged nicely with a cable clip. The member was also informed that they could paint the cable white to match if they wished to do so.

PXL_20240203_194249630.jpg

 

Plastic Frame Windows:

A lot of newer buildings have new plastic framed windows. These windows often have a plastic or wood frame on the inside and sometimes have a metal flashing on the outside. The frames around the sliding pane are also often hollow on both the sides and bottom. (This can be checked by tapping with your hand and listening for a hollow sound)

The plastic frames are easy to drill, so often it's possible to drill the frame around the window, so you don't have to worry about the window closing on the cable. However if you do need to drill the bottom lip you must make sure to drill as low as possible so the cable lies flat on the bottom frame. These windows have much less play to work with, so there's a possibility of it not locking shut once the wire is run though. 

Example of a plastic window with a hollow frame. Was able to drill through the bottom frame of the window which is hollow inside. 

PXL_20240203_174306806.jpg
Drilling straight through will the inside hole as low as possible on the bottom frame of the window.

PXL_20240203_174323988.jpg
Drill bit existed through existing drainage hole on the outside of the frame, so a bit messy outside hole. Can be sealed with caulk, but as it's an existing (and intentional) drainage hole, it's not necessary. Caulk the inside hole around the cable to prevent cold drafts getting in.

PXL_20240203_174337610.jpg

<Insert photos of hole drilled through the side frame of a plastic window>

Side Opening (New fancy windows):

These windows are really problematic due the fact that there are usually very small frames, so there's no where to drill a hole though without impacting the function of the window or being too close to the glass (risk of breaking it).
Most of these windows will also not seal/latch shut properly with anything running through them. You end up with a big gap open around 3 sides of the window which will let in a ton of air and the member probably wont approve of. 

In most cases the best way to deal with these new windows is to just find a new point of entry or just drill through the wall.

<insert photo of crappy modern window that's impossible to drill>